After dragging my hungover backside back to the station, i was longing to get onto the train and rest properly so i was super excited and anticipating the arrival of the Lev Tolstoy into Helsinki station. There was ample wifi at the station on the trains coming in and out which i was busy hacking as i waited and finally it pulled in. Now Russian trains are very deceptive, they all the look the same dull grey with the very soviet and boring looking red 70s style writing on the side. However this one was pimped out inside! It had all new interior including key card locks on the compartments and toilets with paper AND soap! (Anyone who has ever been on a sleeper train will know how hard these things can be to come by!) There was also an ample supply of drinks and snacks laid out for us next to the plump bedding and slippers. Rendering the Vietnamese baguette i had bought myself at the station useless, or so i thought… More on that later!
The train itself was fabulous, it was so new that i could still catch the smell of the new carpet in the air. I was very pleased, this was one of the 1st class bookings as the price was practically the same and i’m not sure what 2nd class was like for this one. But 1st is highly recommended! I was joined by a really lovely Swedish lady in my cabin who was travelling with work, and we had a nice chat before she headed off to meet her boss in the bar car. I settled myself in to get inspiration from the travel mags that i bought with me, in a desperate attempt to finish them and offload them so i can lose some luggage weight. Karma should be thankful though as i gave them to the lady in my carriage and she seemed quite pleased as she had run out of things to read.
The provodnitsa came round and asked if we wanted dinner “it’s free” he said, “would you like chicken and rice or beef and vegetables?” little did i know this would be a taste of things to come! OK, i’ll have the beef please, i replied. It was the most obscure dinner delivery i have ever received. He came back with a big picnic bag out of which came a cling film wrapped plate, now the plate had been stacked on top of and underneath others so had a beautiful ring around it where the other plate had been resting. I unwrapped it with apprehension thinking it can’t be that bad…
It was a weird mix of hot and cold, hot (ish) mashed potato squashed into the plate, two leather like lukewarm beef strips, accompanied with squished up carrots. I ate the beef having been conditioned to eat the meat even if i don’t finish everything else as a child, and thanked my lucky stars that i did buy the Vietnamese sarnie at the station!
We stayed up for ages chatting and reading as we thought that the provodnitsa had to turn down our beds for us, she was quite stern and we were both a bit scared of doing the wrong thing. Then as it came up to midnight we realised that everyone else had started going to bed. We beckoned her over and asked and the got more of a telling off for not doing it ourselves than we probably would have done otherwise. Oh dear…
I slept really well, and we were woken up by the provodnitsa with an offer of coffee. I can get used to this! We were so close to Moscow that the scenery was the standard back of factories etc, and just quietly took it all in. After the profession of free goods last night we were quite surprised to find that the provodnitsa came back to ask for some cash before we got off. It was a little strange that dinner was free and coffee wasn’t, i have a sneaking suspicion that was her way of gouging a tip out of us. That and the sudden charm and helpfulness as we got off the train despite being very stern and scary the whole journey. Doing the standard refusal for a picture when i asked when i got on, i wanted to capture the ladies in their smart uniform. It’s all part of the experience, never mind!
We pulled into the station and i did my usual kid in a sweet shop thing as i walked onto the platform taking in the new city and it’s quirks. My guide was there to meet me and whisk me off to my hotel in the middle of the city. The Matreshka billed as “ a unique combination of excellent location, excellent service and reasonable prices. ”
A very excited feeder signing off to sleep and then explore Moscow with the lovely Vera!
Ciao x x x
