Having made the decision to spend some more time savouring this splendid Penang, I left the luxury of the Seven Terraces this morning. it’s absolutely stunning but a bit too pricey for a long term stay. So I found a new and shiny bed and breakfast
called the Betel Nut Lodge on the edge of the heritage zone that was right up my street. I settled myself in and spent the afternoon writing,working and enjoying the comforts of my new home. It’s another heritage building (it’s a crime not to stay in one really when you are in Georgetown!) much smaller than seven terraces (which stands to reason, as that was 7 knocked into one ergo the name!) but has the same traditional features like a rain well, and an additional roof terrace which doesn’t have the most compelling view of the city, but a great panorama of the sky from on high.
I was holed up for so long catching up with various bits and pieces that the hotel owner sent up some fresh fruit and homemade cake to keep me going late in the afternoon. So kind and much appreciated. That was my sign that i needed to get on and see some more of the city. There is no rush as i’m here for another week now but it feels like a waste to not do something new every
day when i am here. I planned to try and catch another sunset tonight, but the hotel owner was talking for so long when i left that i missed it. I was practically hopping by the end, trying to wrap up the recommendations. But he was such a keen foodie and advocate of Penang that the list just didn’t stop coming. It was very sweet, i didn’t have the heart to stop him.
One very good recommendation was the Armenian Street night market. It was a hub of local talent featuring all sorts of arts, food
and crafts. It happens once a month and there was a lot going on this evening. Armenian Street’s got talent was early on in my walk, followed by the wedding shoot of a muslim couple. These photo shoots are very common in Asia for all denominations. I find them a bit showy, i don’t think they are often done on their actual wedding day or even their honeymoon destination. It’s common for couples to travel to other destinations that look pretty just to make a nice wedding album. Which takes away from the meaning of what marriage is all about and makes it into something showy. Nevertheless it was a fantastic mash of cultures, with the young couple being accosted by
the Chinese dragon dancers as they posed their way down the street. The accompanying band was very loud and i think the picture sums up how the couple really felt about them gatecrashing their pictures!
You can’t plan moments like that, i was meandering down the road with a child like joy at all the amazing sights that i was spotting. From
culture clashes, to quaint little galleries. Pushy attention seeking clowns and some of the famous Penang street art. It was a plethora of sights and sounds for the senses, i was in my element. I picked up a bundle of pretty postcards from a beautiful little
stationary shop (coming to a postbox near you soon!) and starting to get a bit hungry went in search of food.
Search is the right word, i had wanted to go to the Red Garden tonight but for some reason despite being able to find it during the day (my usual trick to make sure i know where i am going at night) i couldn’t find it. So i popped down to the harbour front restaurant “Under the tree shade” to try some local seafood at the recommendation of the hotel owner. There is a fishmonger to the right hand side where you can view and select your fish and seasoning. Then you go and sit down in the vast expanse of restaurant next door to wait for its arrival. I was immediately accosted by a man as i walked in shepherding me to a table and admonishing me for being there alone. “How are you ever going to order?!” he kept repeating to himself. “You can’t eat alone here!”
He clearly hasn’t seen a feeder in action before, oh yes i can!
I ordered based on the recommendation of my host and took in a small portion of five flavour fish, spiced egg prawns and a vegetable side dish which he was convinced that i
wouldn’t like. It was a lot like samphire (which i love!) so i was in my element. Although i asked for small portions, my dinner looked like a veritable banquet as it was delivered. It caused quite a stir, and once again i think i am a feature of some random people’s Facebook/holiday snaps. There were lots of stares and “are you sure you can eat that Madam” comments from the staff. I wasn’t sure myself to be honest, but i managed it. The
fish was beautiful, a very meaty fish with a gentle slightly sour flavouring. Followed by lightly fried prawns, cooked perfectly. Which all went brilliantly with the mysterious vegetable side dish. And once again i did it, much to the disappointment of the locals, think they wanted me to fail!
The next stop on my journey was another great recommendation from someone who knows me scarily well, China House. It’s a perfect mix of art gallery, shop, restaurant, cafe, bar, library and live music venue. A stunning way to spend the end of a chilled Saturday night. I made the mistake of going in the Beach Street entrance and walking past the cake counters though! If you go there, make sure you go in the other side! Despite having tucked into a beautiful dinner i still had room for sweets and devoured a rather creamy trifle as i sat and watched the live music. Which was wonderful, some old school rhythm and Blues from a guy that looked like he had been airlifted fresh out of a smoky New Orleans Jazz bar. It was amazing i was surging with energy at how many wonderful things i had the privilege of experiencing that evening.
Then i walked home…
A terrified, traumatised & tired Cake Lady signing off to attempt some rest. Reeling a little from the pinch that Penang delivered next.
Baci a tutti x x x







